Our Last Day in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica – A Surprise Sloth Sanctuary Visit

Spot the Sloth!

Our time in Puerto Viejo had come to an end, and it was time to head off to our next stop: La Fortuna! It was a fairly chunky 270 kilometre drive to the middle of Costa Rica. We were up early, the car packed, and ready to roll.

As we said goodbye to our host, Natalie, she mentioned she wanted to try one last time to introduce us to her “pet” caiman.

I should probably explain.

Natalie would occasionally pop by to check that we had everything we needed. During our stay, we were introduced to her dog, Wolf; once a stray who seemingly decided his wandering days were over and simply stuck around. He’s now a much loved member of Natalie’s family. We saw them heading out on walks several times, and on a couple of occasions Archer even joined them.

Running through Natalie’s small plot of land is a narrow stream. Over the years, she explained, she has befriended a caiman who lives there. She would head down to the riverbank, call for him, and he would swim over while she tossed in food scraps. Sadly (or perhaps thankfully!) he hadn’t made an appearance during our stay.

So, just before setting off, we took a final walk down to the river’s edge for one last attempt. It was a lovely little spot (although I was feeling slightly paranoid having not yet applied any mosquito repellent). Natalie an
nd Archer called out, but once again, no caiman appeared.

What we did see, though, was still special. In just a few minutes we spotted wild hens, hummingbirds, and several tiny turtles poking their heads out of the water to investigate the strange creratures making weird noises and throwing food. Also, this little guy on the right
...?

Eventually, we had to give up. We said our final goodbyes and hit the road just before 9am. According to Waze, a 4 and a half hour drive lay ahead of us. Oof.

Abbout half an hour after leaving town, I caught sight of a sign out of the corner of my eye: Sloth Sanctuary. I suggested a detour. We’d hit the road earlier than expected and were likely to arrive at our next accommodation far too early to check in anyway, so it felt like fate lending us a helping hand.

A quick U-turn later, we pulled into The Sloth Sanctuary of Costa Rica.

We couldn't have timed it better as a tour was just starting as we parked up. We leapt out of the car and hurried inside to buy tickets. We opted for the "Buttercup Tour", plus the optional canoe ride. The cost was $35 per adult and $20 for Archer (under 14s), making $90 all in. (The canoe ride was optional and only an extra $5 each).

Moments later, we hurried down to a small dock where another family waited in a canoe. We wobbled our way aboard the narrow vessel and settled in.

Our guide cast off, and we drifted quietly down a narrow river. It’s a natural waterway, left entirely to its own devices, so a bit overgrown in places, edged with weeds, dead branches, and debris. It isn’t manicured or polished, but that’s very much the point. Leaving things to nature seemed central to the sanctuary’s ethos.

Before long, the guide brought the canoe to a stop and pointed up at a palm tree. High at the top, tucked among the broad leaves, was a small brown shape.

“Here you can see one of our rescued sloths,” he said.

Even after being told, it took a moment for our brains to register what we were looking at. The camouflage was astonishing. It was at that moment I realised we’d probably seen plenty of sloths on our earlier treks, we just had absolutely no idea what we were looking at. Their colouring, shape, and stillness make them almost invisible.

We carried on drifting, spotting several other creatures along the way, including the wonderfully named "Jesus Christ lizard", so called because its speed and comical running style allow it to sprint across the surface of water.

As we paddled on, we caught sight of various animals including toucans and we saw and heard howler monkeys calling in the distance. Then the guide stopped again and pointed high up into another tree.

“This sloth has a baby,” he told us, “but it’s very unlikely you’ll see it. They’re extremely shy and very well camouflaged against their mother and the tree.”

Almost on cue, a tiny head popped up and peered down at us.

We all burst into giddy, delighted, hushed giggles. Unfortunately the photo didn't come out very well, but its something! (top left)

Soon after, the canoe tour ended and we were dropped back at the dock. About ten minutes later, the tour and talk inside the sanctuary began.

It was excellent; genuinely fascinating, and gave us the chance to get up close to some of the permanent resident sloths. Each one was introduced to us along with the story of how they came to be at the sanctuary.

Some were there due to injuries from cars, falls, or electric shocks from power lines. Others were abandoned or orphaned before learning how to survive in the wild.

This part of the tour lasted around an hour and went into real depth, covering everything from habitat and diet to mating habits and evolution. It was informative, engaging, and never felt rushed. A truly memorable experience, and one we’d wholeheartedly recommend.

Naturally, we finished with a stop at the gift shop, where we bought Archer a cuddly sloth toy. I’m fairly certain it’s the law in situations like this.

With Archer cuddling his new sloth companion, we climbed back into the car and headed inland. The laid back Caribbean coast of Puerto Viejo faded into the rear view mirror as Costa Rica’s scenery began to change; flat jungle gave way to rolling hills and winding mountain roads. Ahead of us lay La Fortuna, home to volcanoes, waterfalls, hot springs, and a very different pace of adventure.